Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
